Previously I had mentioned that Matt and I are planning to do the Great Wall Half Marathon. We are in no shape to do the full especially with the advertised "5164 steps." After my painful experience at the Big Wild Goose Pagoda, I realized I definitely needed some serious step training before the half. Walking up the 32 flights of steps in my apartment building, while challenging and also painful, was boring as anything! Hence, my plan to visit Mt. Huashan.
I explained to Matt my reasons for wanting to go and the various ways to get there. (Bus, train, ordering a private car.) Who are we kidding, there was no way we were going to take a bus and the train often just feels like too much trouble trying to get a taxi to take us to the station and having to arrive on time or miss the train, so we decided on a private car and we also decided to go out there the evening before and spend the night in a nearby hotel so we could get an early start in the morning and have the whole day to spend on the mountain. Assuming we would be tired afterwards, we also got the hotel for the following night and booked the car for Sunday afternoon to take us back.
The next morning, after a very Chinese breakfast during which we were stared at quite a bit as the only westerners staying at the hotel, we were ready to go. As usual, we were severely overcharged for a taxi which at the last minute added two more people. We were waiting quite some time because the man was arguing with one of the ladies at the front desk. They got in and he said, "Hello, may I ask you what they are charging you for this ride?"
We said, "70."
"That is also what they are charging us. I am very disappointed. We are going to the train station and that should only be 50."
"Unfortunately, we have gotten used to it." Matt replied.
"I am Chinese," he said, "but I am from Hong Kong, I tried to tell them this is wrong but they don't care." Then he added, "You are going to the mountain which is even closer. It is about half the distance."
So, basically they were ripping us all off, but we were getting it worse. Again, we are used to it and we can't argue with them, which apparently didn't help anyway.
Eventually, we made it to the mountain. Oh, and I forgot to add that it was completely cloudy and raining fairly hard. Everyone outside seemed to have on rain ponchos. We went into the convenience store outside the visitor center and purchased two ponchos.
Then we went inside and purchased a map. The whole place was very confusing and people kept cutting in line in front of us. (Very annoying.) We weren't even sure if we were in the right place, but then I noticed an information desk so we went over there to make sure we were in the right place. One of the girls there spoke English and she said we were in the right place to buy tickets. We showed her our map and asked where we were and how long would it take to get up the mountain if we didn't take the cable car?
She pointed to the bottom of the map and said the shuttle will take you to either the east cable car (20 minutes) or the west cable car (40 minutes). Here is the map in English. (Ours was entirely in Chinese.)
Map of Mt. Huashan |
Basically, the west cable car will pretty much take you all the way to the top. The east cable car takes you to North Peak. From there, it is about a 3 or 4 hour hike to East Peak. We asked how long a hike to East Peak if we didn't take the cable car, to which she replied, "About 7 hours."
Matt and I looked at each other, and decided we were fine with a 3 or 4 hour hike up and 7 hours uphill was overkill. After all, we still had to come down. We purchased our tickets for the mountain, donned our ponchos, and boarded the shuttle bus in the rain. We got off the shuttle 20 minutes later and walked past the trail to "circumvent the mountain." It looked very steep and very long despite the clouds hiding most of the mountain.
This is the start of the trail if you don't take the east cable car. |
I hear the views from the cable cars are amazing, but all we could see was white.
The entire way up was nothing but stairs. And very steep stairs at that!
Matt not looking too eager to go up. |
We were moving along at a pretty good clip. I was wearing a windbreaker, over a warm running shirt, over a tank top. After about 15 minutes, I figured I would take off the running shirt and just leave on the tank top and the windbreaker but I was so sweaty already that I just took both off and was just wearing my tank top. Everyone else was bundled in jackets so I probably looked really strange because it was not at all warm. Even Matt was asking me, "Aren't you cold?" But, I also noticed that everyone else was really huffing and puffing and hanging onto the chains and resting all over the place. I was passing people all over the place so I think some of my stair work had paid off. I was feeling quite fit!
A brief glimpse of the view! |
East Peak, I swear it! Although it could have been anywhere... |
It's only 6 seconds but I included it because you can see all of the locks that are all over the place. Those locks are getting to be quite a thing these days. Paris has that Love Bridge, and I noticed it starting in the English Garden in Munich. They were all over Mt. Huashan. They sell them on the mountain and they will engrave them for you with your names on them. Personally, I think it looks rather unattractive and should not be encouraged but that's just me.
After East Peak, we went off to find Planked Path. We ended up at the top of South Peak and then had to go back down again to finally make it to Planked Path. Once there, you need to climb down a ladder on the side of the mountain to get to the plank. The line didn't seem too long, but you could tell that it was still going to take forever because they would only let a few people go down at a time. Also, you still couldn't see ANYTHING! So what was the point of hanging off a cliff/plank if you couldn't even see how treacherous it was? We decided to skip it and went into one of the many restaurants up there to get something to eat.
The Ladder in the Sky |
This was what the beginning of the downward trail looked like. |
While we were resting, it finally dawns on Matt that we aren't taking the cable car down and he seems genuinely shocked by this fact, despite me asking him at the beginning, and reminding him again before we started down the mountain. At this point it was too late to go back up again and he would just need to suck it up and keep going downward which eventually he did but not without telling me the entire way down how much his legs hurt and how ridiculous it was to walk down etc.
Look how far that is! |
Taking a rest midway down or so. |
Matt taking a call from his mother. Any excuse for a break. |
A bit of a clearer view of the trail we came down. (It was the same one we passed on the way to the cable car) |
Japanese Style Hotel Room |
And surprisingly, after all that, I wasn't nearly as sore as I was when I just climbed the 32 floors in my apartment building and then went for a 4 mile run. I definitely think we are ready for the Wall!